One week down, six to go!

I woke up to an obnoxious beeping noise today only to realize that it was my new Kenyan cell phone’s alarm clock… ugh. Morning already? Somehow the night and my sleep never seem long enough. I got up to turn the alarm off and found my mosquito net shoved to the side, which I vaguely remembered being annoyed with last night and throwing off. I can probably thank that for the numerous new bites on my legs!

After I got up, I ate a mango for breakfast, took my malaria pill, and got ready for the day. Waited by the main road for my ride and watched joggers go by in their bare feet and monkeys climbing across (and laughing as they sometimes fell off of) the power lines. Said “Jambo!” to the passers-by. Routine already, and this is only my 9th day in Kenya. I’m thankful for it, though, because it makes life feel normal even though I’m so far from home.

I’m currently at the Kwale District Eye Center (founded by a British woman but sponsored by a German missions organization... hence my being here) drinking hot tea with lots of milk and sugar (hot tea on a hot day? Guess I’m just following suit and doing like everyone else does) and am spending the day thinking about where this project is headed and how I can make it better. It's a bit of a relief to be able to take a break from surveys and interviews and to just work on some planning instead.

Research has been complicated and challenging, and it’s hard for me to even see where this whole project is going at times. Somehow it’ll all get straightened out – at least I hope so! I’m thankful for getting to know the staff while I’m here, though, and they’re all having fun teaching me Swahili words like “eye clinic” and “cup” and “how much does it cost?” and are very curious about my research, which I like telling them about.

On Wednesday I went out in the field for an eye screening in a very remote village in Kinango about an hour and a half drive inland from the coast. We had to drive up into the highlands over pretty rough roads and through a national park to get there, and along the way we saw some warthogs and baboons with their babies following behind. (The adult versions of both animals aren’t so cute, but the young ones definitely are!). It was like a mini-safari, which was really fun. We were hoping to see some elephants, too… but all we saw were elephant droppings. Boo! Slightly disappointing, but at least I can say I was in a park where elephants live : )


An "Mganga" - traditional healer - who came to our screening.

Other than research, I’ve been spending time with Jael and Sebastian and appreciating their rides to and from work that save me from the Matatus (although I think I could handle them better now that I’ve had some experience). The restaurant they took me to last night was wonderful – we ate dinner with only a palm roof over our heads by the light of candles and paper lanterns and watched the waves wash ashore just 50 meters away. I definitely needed the break from thinking and worrying about my research, so a relaxing late dinner fit the bill perfectly.

Okay, off to do some work. Thanks for reading and hope everyone in Columbus has dug their way out of the snow I hear you all got mid-week ; )

While in Africa... don't count on the Internet to work!

Hey all, sorry I haven't updated in awhile, but Simone's computer has been broken and the Internet cafe's internet was also broken... and so it's been a bit of an ordeal trying to be in touch with people back home! The computer here at the internet cafe (with a newly-repaired connection) is strange and it took me forever to even figure out how to log in, so my time's about up and I need to head out for dinner. Sebastian and Jae are picking me up and taking me out for pizza - mmm : ) Anyway, I've gotta run but promise I will post something more exciting soon!

I used to think "research" sounded boring...

I started my research today at the Kwale District Eye Centre – it was a very good, long, fun, and exhausting day all rolled up into one and I’m currently trying to finish preparing for my day in the field tomorrow before crashing into bed.

My morning began with a rather adventurous ride on Matatus (privately owned mini-buses) to the clinic an hour away. Thankfully John, who I met yesterday, happened to be going on the same route as me and was able to help me through the whole crazy process. He saved me from being charged higher “Mzungu” fares, which was nice. Better, though, was when he saved me from being completely overwhelmed when we had to change Matatus - I was nearly mobbed by people trying to push and pull the Mzungu woman into their cars so they could make a little extra money off of my inexperience. John grabbed my hand, pulled me through the crowd to the right Matatu, and put me in it after telling the driver where to let me off. Thank goodness!

At the clinic I spent the day meeting staff and still trying to figure out exactly how I’m going to go about this process of researching. A chat with a German doctor who works there (and coincidentally studied at the University of Bonn and worked in the same office I did while I was there!) really helped me figure some things out. He’s taken an interest in my project and I think he’ll continue to help guide me while I’m here. An hour into my time there I also found myself learning to give and chart the reading part of eye exams, putting in eye drops, and taking blood pressure… but don’t worry, they weren’t calling me Dr. Stacy just yet ; )

To end the day, I went with Dr. Roberts, the founder of the clinic, and one of the nurses named Jael to a resort in Diani Beach where we did an aerobics class and followed it up with fifteen minutes in a sauna. If you can imagine an hour of aerobics in mid-90 degree temperatures with high humidity and far too many people in a tiny room followed by an even hotter and sweatier trip to the sauna… well, that was my evening! But it was so nice to get to hang out with some people from the clinic and know that when I go back tomorrow, there will be people I am looking forward to seeing.

Churches and Beaches

I’ve been in Kenya for four days now and it already feels like an eternity since I last saw home. I’m still not quite feeling adjusted to the time and culture and place, but it’s getting better. Today was actually really great and has helped me to feel more at home because I finally made some friends besides Simone (the wonderful woman I’m living with).

This morning I went to the beach at 9 to go to church with Faith, a woman I met on the beach my second day here. She didn’t show up for awhile, so I wound up being invited to sit on a washed-up tree stump in the sand by a guy about my age, and it was really nice getting to chat with someone new for a little while. He tried to sell me fish (and even said he would fillet them for me since I don’t know what to do with a whole fish), so who knows if that’ll work out or not. Could be… yummy?

About ten minutes later a guy named John, probably a few years older than me, came along and told me Mama Faith sent him to get me and bring me to her house, so I followed him back into the nearby village and waited in their courtyard on a little wooden stool around a smoldering fire as Faith showered and got ready. They live in poverty and filth… but for some reason it didn’t phase me like when I was in Ghana. I was honestly just honored to have been invited to their home!

On our way out I made a child cry, by the way, when John tried to bring her to me. I know, I know – I still look like a pasty-white ghost, but there’s not much I can do about it! Sorry : (

We walked to the little church made of boards and tin and sat down in plastic chairs with broken backs along with the rest of the small congregation dressed in their Sunday best. The service lasted for four hours, consisted of multiple sermons, and was about what I’d expected I guess… very high-energy worship (in Swahili) and super hot and super long. I was very thankful that nearly everything was translated, and what wasn’t Faith and John were able to explain.

One of the most interesting parts (besides one of the preachers calling me up constantly to read my Bible in English and then asking me after the sermon to come forward and give my remarks to the congregation – and my opinions on Obama) was seeing the contrast between their two pastors. One was a small, stoic European (Swiss or German?) and the other was a tall, sturdy-looking Kenyan who preached (screamed?) with such animation, jumping and arms flailing, that I have NO clue how the two pastor a church together! They must make it work somehow… and I hope I can talk to them both maybe next week?? Could be interesting for my thesis – or just interesting in general for me.

After church I went to the beach for a swim and walked by a family of monkeys that look like little baboons. Then farther up the path I passed by several Colubus monkeys (I think that’s what they’re called at least – the black and white ones that most zoos have) that were big and so beautiful! It’s strange to see animals like that up close with no glass between us.

While I was out I met more of the beach people and feel like I have a few more friends here. One girl told me which beach boys to avoid and how to get them to stop pestering me, another told me how to take the Matatu (mini-bus) to the clinic tomorrow, and yet another named Osmond (who practiced his German with me) saved me from getting stung by a pretty little blue jellyfish that was far too close. Phew!

Guess that’s it for now. Sorry these updates are so long… kudos to you if you made it all the way to the end, and I’ll try to work on shortening my posts for next time.

Jambo! ("hello")

After having two days to get settled in here in Diani Beach, I’m starting to feel like I’m adjusting to the time difference and the heat and humidity a bit. It’s been about 90 degrees I think, but the sun is so much stronger than in Ohio – even in summer there - and the humidity constantly high that I am constantly very warm… but I’m not complaining ; ) I’ll take skirts and sandals over boots and gloves any day!

So far life here has been a fun adventure. I was sure we were going to hit dozens of people, carts, and vans (we didn’t) during the hour it took to make our way in a taxi from Mombasa to Diani Beach (on the wrong… er, left side of the road). I rode with two Germans who were there on holiday, one an opinionated construction worked with super long hair and the other with hot pink hair, so we had a long chat and I got to practice my German earlier than I’d expected.

As it turns out, there are quite a few Europeans, or Mzungus (white people) in this area, and many of them have moved here permanently because they love the slower pace of life, the simplicity, and the sun. I got to meet quite a few of them at a local restaurant/pub that they all go to, so that was fun. In that same place about 20 women watched Mamma Mia together last night and I went… made me forget I was in Africa at all for awhile!

There are other things, however, that you couldn’t mistake for something I’d see at home. There was a power cut last night, for example, and I have already used interesting toilets and have seen lizards in the house and sleep under a mosquito net. The pace of life is soooo much slower than at home, which is a nice change actually. It’s just very different!

I won’t get into a regular routine until Monday when I’ll start interviews at the eye clinic, so basically… I’m doing a whole lot of nothing. It’s probably very good though to have the time to adjust. For now I’m just hanging out with Simone, the Dutch woman I live with, and reading, catching up on sleep, and spending a little time on the beach.

Speaking of which… I’m going to close with a fun story from today. If you read a few posts down where I talk about Simone saying I’m not allowed to bring any beach boys home, let me just tell you that I had my first encounters with them today and I can see why she said what she did!

Okay, so I headed to the coast of the Indian Ocean today and was loving the clear, bright blue water and the sun and the white sand and just walking along, minding my own business, when I was approached by person after person wanting to sell me something or give me some service. Luckily I escaped with only two braids in my hair with little beads on the ends, but here’s what I COULD have had: two male bodyguards, personalized keychains, carved figurines, a massage, more braids, henna tattoos, a personal snorkelling lesson, a canoe ride to a distant sandbar, an escort to the local club tonight (it’s an Obama reggae – they all LOVE him here), and illegal substances. Um… NO!!!!

And all I wanted was to go for a swim! I have got to learn to fend them off better, and guess I’ll have two more weeks to practice, right?

Update from Mombasa

Hey all, just a real quick update to let you know that I made it here safely and am very glad to finally be out of planes and airports. I'm pretty exhausted after about 38 hours of travel from start to finish, but I managed to stay up all day today save a short nap and am hoping to get some good sleep tonight and get my internal clock on the right time zone! The accomodations here and the woman I'm staying with are wonderful, but I'll write more on that and post some pictures after I've slept. Good night!

Tutaonana (that's Swahili for "goodbye")

So it's finally here - today's the big day of departure, and I think I'm about ready to go. I started taking my anti-malaria medicine last night and miraculously managed to get everything I need for six weeks in Africa and a week in Europe into one suitcase (although it remains to be seen whether or not I'll go over the 50-lb weight limit... hopefully not!).

My flight out of Columbus leaves at 3:30, after which I'll be hanging out in airports in Chicago, Amsterdam (for eleven hours... blah!), and Nairobi before finally making my way to Mombasa, where I will land at about 1:30 A.M. on Thursday eastern time.

I'll let you all know when I'm in Kenya... until then, I can't wait to get on a plane and get these butterflies out of my stomach!

Final Preparations

I felt a little bit silly trying on skirts and t-shirts today while watching the snow come down outside my bedroom window as I made a list of what I'm going to pack for the trip. However, during a week when windchills will dip well below zero, I am definitely looking forward to getting to trade my coat and boots for lightweight clothing and sandals! 90 degrees and humid, here I come : )

Before I go, I thought I'd post a map so you all have an idea of where I'm headed...


The line across Africa that I drew in is the approximate location of the equator, so it'll be summer and yes, very warm. The yellow dot on the right is Mombasa, Kenya (where I'm headed first), which is a popular tourist destination and is a port city on the coast of the Indian Ocean. The dot that's inland is Geita, Tanzania, my second stop on this journey, and it is best know for its gold mine. It's also very close to Lake Victoria, which is the source of the Nile River. The line connecting the two points will take me through Nairobi as I travel from one city to the other.

Hard to believe that in only two days of travel I'll be covering eight time zones and over eight thousand miles (from Columbus to Mombasa directly; more if you figure in the crazy indirect route I have to fly). Thirty-some hours spent in planes and airports seems like a long time, but thank goodness for the technology that makes this all so much easier and quicker than it used to be!

Falling into Place

Welcome to my blog that I created to keep you all updated about my upcoming African adventure! On January 20th I will be headed for Mombasa, Kenya and later Geita, Tanzania to work on my senior thesis. It's a long way to travel, but I guess studying contemporary German missions work in East Africa is a little easier to do when actually in Africa than by reading books. Not to mention it'll be a lot more interesting and hopefully a lot of fun as well : )

Here's the itinerary of my trip:

Jan 20th - depart from Columbus
Jan 22nd - arrive in Mombasa
Feb 10th - fly to Nairobi, travel to Geita, Tanzania
March 5th - depart from Tanzania
March 6th - arrive in London; fly to Cologne, Germany
March 10th - depart from Germany, overnight layover in London
March 11th - arrive in Columbus

Things are slowly coming together for my trip, which is both exciting and encouraging. I just received my passport and my Kenyan and Tanzanian visas back from their respective embassies yesterday, and it looks like I'll also have a good place to stay while I'm in Mombasa. The woman I will be renting a room from wrote me the following yesterday to tell me about her house:

"The beach (Diani coast on the Indian Ocean) is just crossing the street, less than three minutes away... It is a spacious room, including own bathroom: toilet and shower. Own refrigerator (upstairs) there is a spacious kitchen, big livingroom and huge garden (sunny and shady) which Stacy has to share with the (1 female) owner of the house. The room containts a bed, with musquitonet, large table with chair to work at the table, chair to relax in and cubboard and book shelves. They place has been save for the last three years and before. Also i have two 'watch' dogs. although they prefer sleeping most of the time, but are very allert when they hear anything."

She also informed me that she does not allow her guests to bring beach boys back to the room, but if I have a steady boyfriend, then he's allowed to come back with me. I had to laugh about that one... at least she's very conscientious about safety! And she is offering to cook for me as well if I'd like, which sounds wonderful.

Guess that's about it for now - more to come as my departure date gets closer!